Jewelry manufacturing begins with the model. There are 2 main ways to build a model.
By HandSkilled craftsmen either carve a design out of wax, or craft different elements of metal together to create a master model.
By Computer (CAD)Computer designers utilize special programs to build images that create the tiniest details.
CAMComputer designers utilize special programs to build images that create the tiniest details.
MOLD MAKING AND CASTING
Once you have a model, a mold is made. A mold enables you to duplicate the model as many times as you would like in any metal. Hot wax under pressure is injected into the mold and removed when cooled, which serves as a casting model.
Waxes are grouped together on a wax tree with other styles to be casted in the same metal and color.
The wax tree goes into a form, where plaster is poured into it. The form is baked overnight and the wax is melted away. This leaves an empty cavity of the rings.
Metal is heated to extreme temperatures and transformed to liquid. The metal is vacuumed into the plaster form with the now empty cavity of rings.
When a ring style is ordered, different metal components are ordered to the specifications of the desired ring. Those components are pieced together and cut to size. We either solder or laser the metal to weld them to accommodate the proper center stone and finger size. Since platinum requires such high heat, it is always welded by laser.
The rings now go through a series of polishing stages to prepare them for stone setting. Diamonds and gem stones are picked to the specifications of the style, accurate to the .01mm. Color, clarity, and cut of each accenting diamond or gem stone is double checked.
Using special drill heads in the actual shape of diamonds, bearings are cut in the metal. Each stone is set into its bearing and secured by the surrounding metal. There are several different methods to securing stones to jewelry.
POLISHING AND FINISHING
Once the ring is assembled and stones are set, it's time to finish the piece.
Using different sized and shaped buffs and polishing brushes, we are able to access every part of the jewelry - from inside to underneath the gallery.
The final polishing step is called lapping. Lapping ensures the ring have a smooth, high quality finish.
Since white gold is not pure white, it requires a plating. We plate our jewelry by attaching electrodes, then dipping in rhodium solution. Rhodium is a pure white metal.